Restaurant Review - Sweet Grass Grill

Any time is a good time to visit Sweet Grass Grill. We wandered in for lunch, and we were very glad we did.

Chef Tommy Lasley is a young man whose goal is to serve superior food in a relaxed atmosphere. A graduate of the prestigious Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, he specializes in serving only the freshest ingredients, cooked with a special flare. House made ice cream and bread are a given; the fish is smoked and the pancetta is cured on the premises. Even the chickens are local.

Everything was delicious, but the Butternut squash soup with almonds and stewed cranberries is a must. The golden orange color, creamy texture, and delicately sweet flavor make this winter favorite a delight for the senses.

A burger is not just a burger at this bistro. They are prepared with a mixture of sirloin, chuck and brisket, which is fresh ground every day. Choose the crispy French fries, and  this humble dish becomes a feast. Pickled onions are the perfect finishing touch.

I found myself deconstructing the seared Scottish salmon sandwich. The flakey fish, cooked to succulent perfection, was just too good not to be eaten alone. I chose as my accompanying dish the grain salad, a flavorful mix that changes somewhat according to what's fresh in the kitchen. Loaded with toasted bulgur, cauliflower, bay leaves, pumpkin seeds, and golden raisins, this could easily be a meal in itself.

Don't pass up the coffee. Even my decaf was French pressed and excellent.

By all means, request the dessert menu, even if you think you can't eat another bite. While Sweet Grass is justifiably famous for the house made the apple cider donuts, and I am a confirmed chocoholic, I stepped out of my comfort zone and sampled the almond bread pudding. House made marzipan ice cream; brandied pears; marzipan flourishes, and a crunchy, carmelly topping make this dish a real winner. It's dense but not heavy; sweet but not cloying; in fact, total heaven on a spoon. And there's plenty to share with friends and family who also thought they couldn't be tempted.

Sleepy Hollow resident David Starkey and his partner, Theresa McCarthy, have created a gem of a restaurant right in the center of Tarrytown. From the large mullioned windows, you can watch the town pass by. Equally appealing to foodies, families, or the guy who just wants to grab a beer and a bite at the bar, Sweet Grass is highly adaptable.

Starkey credits his mom, who is a superb cook, as his inspiration. Homey touches like the raw sugar in old fashioned containers, soft pink salt candles, and the baskets from Rwanda which hang on the wall, all help create an atmosphere of comfort and welcome.

Using local ingredients in season (as proclaimed by the blackboard out front) and being committed to buying and cooking green is costly in the restaurant business. The fact that the prices at Sweet Grass are so reasonable truly underscores the commitment to excellence and accessibility which are so evident at this delightful eatery.

Sweet Grass Grill, 24 Main Street, Tarrytown. www.sweetgrassgrill.com, 914-631-0000.